By Chinwe of Hair and Health
When it comes to hair care, it is vital to know how certain ingredients work on our strands. Having this knowledge reduces the “trial and error” involved in both building and adjusting a hair care regimen.
Below is a quick guide for the more popular, mainly natural ingredients involved in do-it-yourself (DIY) hair care. Do keep in mind that what works for most individuals may (or may not) work for you.
1. When you want to take advantage of the humidity:
Glycerin, honey, aloe vera juice
Why: Humectants (moisture retention).
How to use: Add to a moisturizer or a leave-in.
2. When you want an oil-based sealant:
Soybean oil, grapeseed oil, castor oil, avocado oil, sweet almond oil
Why: These oils can reduce moisture loss.
How to use: Use separately or add some to your moisturizer.
3. When you want a light sealant:
Jojoba oil, grapeseed oil
Why: These oils are light compared to other oils.
How to use: Use separately or add some to your moisturizer.
4. When you want a heavy sealant:
Olive oil, shea butter (melted) mixed with any oil
Why: Olive oil is one of the heavier oils. Many butters (such as shea) contain fatty acids like oils but are heavier than oils.
How to use: Use separately or add some to your moisturizer.
5. When your scalp is itchy:
Tea tree essential oil, aloe vera juice
Why: Some find either of these substances to be soothing to the skin.
How to use: (Tea tree) Use a few drops with water or a carrier oil. (Aloe vera) Use straight or mix with water. NOTE: If you are pregnant or have a health condition, please consult your doctor before using essential oils.
6. When your scalp is dry:
Jojoba oil, aloe vera juice, grapeseed oil
Why: Jojoba oil is light and said to be very similar to our sebum. Aloe vera juice is light, moisturizing, and soothing to the skin. Grapeseed oil contains a high amount of linoleic acid, which has been shown to protect against moisture loss (British Journal of Derm. 1976 Sept;95(3):255–64).
How to use: (Jojoba, grapeseed) Massage a few drops into the scalp. (Aloe vera) Use straight or mix with water.
7. When you want a moisturizing or softening oil:
Grapeseed oil, safflower oil, castor oil, argan oil
Why: These oils tend to leave the hair feeling soft and moist.
How to use: Use separately on damp hair or add some to your moisturizer.
8. When you want a moisturizing or softening non-oil:
Glycerin, aloe vera gel/juice, rosewater, honey, water
Why: Glycerin and honey are humectants (good for moisture retention). Aloe vera gel/juice and rosewater are moisturizing. Water is the best natural form of hydration.
How to use: Use separately, add to your moisturizer, or mix one (or more) ingredients to create a moisturizing spritz. Glycerin and honey work best when applied to damp hair or mixed with water. NOTE: Adding water, aloe vera juice, or rosewater to a whipped butter can create an environment for bacterial and/or fungal growth.
9. When you want shine or sheen:
Castor oil, coconut oil, avocado oil, apple cider vinegar
Why: Castor oil has been shown to impart sheen (J Cosmet Sci. 2003 Jul-Aug;54(4):335-51). Coconut oil, avocado oil, and apple cider vinegar are ones that many naturals swear by.
How to use: (Castor, coconut, avocado) Use separately or add on top of your moisturizer. (Apple cider vinegar) Use as a post-wash rinse with cold water for 5 minutes.
10. When your shampoo is drying:
Coconut oil, olive oil, argan oil
Why: These oils are moisturizing and lubricating.
How to use: Pre-poo with any of the above oils or add to shampoo.
11. When your shampoo is not cleansing enough:
Baking soda
Why: Easily lifts oils and dirt.
How to use: Mix a little with your shampoo. (Be sure to follow up with an apple cider vinegar rinse.)
12. When you want more slip in your conditioner:
Shea butter (melted), coconut oil, olive oil, jojoba oil
Why: Lubricating.
How to use: Add some to your conditioner.
13. When you want a more moisturizing conditioner:
Glycerin, honey, shea butter (melted), argan oil
Why: (glycerin, honey) moisture retention; (shea butter) emollient.
How to use: Add some to your conditioner.
14. When you want a more strengthening conditioner:
Coconut oil, gelatin, other hydrolyzed protein (e.g. keratin, collagen)
Why: Coconut oil has been shown to penetrate the hair and reduce keratin loss (J Cosmet Sci. 2003 Mar-Apr;54(2):175-92). Hydrolyzed protein, including gelatin, provides reinforcement by temporarily patching the cuticle layer. For maximum strengthening, go for conditioners containing hydrolyzed protein.
How to use: (Coconut oil) Best used as a pre-poo to minimize breakage, but may also use post-wash. (Gelatin) Mix with an avocado, yogurt, and/or oils to create a strengthening conditioner. (Other hydrolyzed protein) Find a commercial conditioner with this ingredient.
15. When you want more hold and definition:
Shea butter, mango butter, beeswax, flaxseed gel
How to use: Add some to your moisturizer or use separately.
16. When you want to add fragrance to your mixture:
Lavender essential oil, jasmine essential oil, rose essential oil, orange essential oil
Why: These oils are some of the better options for specifically adding fragrance. Lavender, jasmine, and rose have floral scents while orange has a citrusy scent.
How to use: Add some to your moisturizer or spritz.
17. When you want a lighter, less oil-based whipped butter (e.g., warm weather):
Aloe vera gel, jojoba oil
Why: moisturizing, but light
How to use: Mix a 1:1 shea butter and aloe vera gel mixture (or a variation of this recipe).
18. When you want a heavier, more oil-based whipped butter (e.g., cold weather):
Olive oil, coconut oil, grapeseed oil, avocado oil, castor oil
Why: moisturizing and sealing
How to use: Mix a 1:1 or 2:1 shea butter and oil(s) mixture.
Ladies, what natural ingredients do you look for in hair care products?
